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It's official - My new 300GD

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mogwild
Posts: 4190

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#151 » Mon Jul 09, 2018 12:01 pm

This is the sheet I used for my Wolf, if it's of any help:
windowlifter.jpg


There's two types of door lining, single:
singledoorlining.jpg


and double:
doubledoorlining.jpg


And of course the crank itself:
crankitupucker.jpg
-trev

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tiktaalik
Posts: 709

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#152 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:08 am

My troubles never ends it seems.

After my 1100 mile road trip last week I think I may have blown my head gasket. Coolant is disappearing and there’s no leak. I topped up a gallon yesterday and will keep a close eye on it today. What’s parts are needed for a head gasket swap on an OM617A other than the head gasket itself?

Also, does anyone know off hand what the stock W460 steering alignment should be? My front tires are wearing excessively on the inside (“toe-in”). I’m going to take it to an alignment shop and would like to know what the stock setting is supposed to be.

Thanks!

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tiktaalik
Posts: 709

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#153 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:09 am

I know when it might have happened. We were climbing to the summit of Steens Mountain (9000’) when the engine overheated and started steaming.

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vadimivanovich
Posts: 8643

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#154 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 1:13 pm

There is a head-gasket "kit" that will have everything you need. It's a good time to replace hoses, timing chain & tensioner spring, and anything else that looks tired.

Alignment should be 0-degrees, but there's an acceptable range that someone else will likely chime in with. I use Alan's DIY sting alignment method. It's free and works.
"The way you think is the way you live"

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tiktaalik
Posts: 709

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#155 » Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:05 am

I have a couple of different questions.

1. Rust treatment. What do you recommend in terms of product and process? I have some rust in the foot wells that I would like to address. I was going to grind it down and apply POR-15 then paint over that.

2. I am replacing the felt on the inside of the door windows. On the front doors I was able to do it by rolling down the windows and use a screw driver to put the felt in the clips.
On the rear doors it looks like the glass needs to come out in order to do that because the glass doesn’t roll down all the way. Is this the case or is there another way?

3. I am replacing the seal on the rear door but I need to remove the rear door stop at the bottom of the door in order to do so. How does it remove?

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tiktaalik
Posts: 709

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#156 » Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:35 am

One more!

4. My windshield wipers now only work in high speed. In the first 2 settings there’s is nothing and in the 3rd setting it goes really fast. Any idea what the issue could be?

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cal_w460
Posts: 2205

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#157 » Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:15 am

1. Grind down to bare metal. Clean with thinner or alcohol. Apply 2k Epoxy with a brush or foam roller. You only need to grind down the rusty spots. The rest can be sanded lighly with 240 grit (European) set sanding paper.

Then apply your G’s color if you want to. Can be bought as 2k on the internet. Or just spray it as 1k. The rust protection is fine with epoxy. I would add some wax afterwords and some sort of plastic wobbly sheet (platon sheet) that creates an airpocket between the floor boards and rubber carpets. Will let condensation and water that has entered, to dry out.

2. You can remove the door card. Disconnect the glass panel from the mechanism or loosen the mechanism. To let the glass go further down. Then remove the felt from the steel channel. Or take out the whole seel channel and replace the felt, then put it back.

The small countersunk philips-screws holding the metal channel (upper part of door frame) can be a PITA to remove. They tend to rust, if you damage the head it takes forever to drill them out. Probably hardened.
w460.333 1982 Colorado Beige 300 GD OM617.931

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cal_w460
Posts: 2205

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#158 » Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:20 am

3. No need to remove the door stop to replace the seal. There is a split in the seal typically placed near the door stop. And a foam rubber pipe that goes into both ends of the seal to keep it water tight.
w460.333 1982 Colorado Beige 300 GD OM617.931

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cal_w460
Posts: 2205

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#159 » Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:27 am

4. First thing to check is the wiper shafts.

- Disconnect the wiper motor from the linkage by removing one of the rods under the instrument cluster, connecting the wiper motor to the linkage.

- Then lift both wiper arms from the wind shield and try to rotate them by hand back and forth. Check for play in each shaft too.

- They should move easily and there should be zero play.

If the shafts are fine. Then your wiper motor needs some attention. There are three things on these motors that typically go bad. Just check one thing at a time or else you might ruin the motor. These are not available at reasonable prices anymore.

- Remove the motor from the G by unthreading the three 10mm bolts attaching it to the firewall. (Remove the plastic cober first)

- Open the gear housing on the motor by unthreading the 3-4 flat head screws. Now, clean out all dried old grease carefully. It will stick inbetween each teeth on the plastic gears too. When all grease is out. Put some fresh silicone grease in. Put the gear housing back together and assemble the motor in the G. Any difference?

The two other things that goes bad requires some careful handling. The brushed and the bushing in the very top of the housing (axle rusts, bushing gets too much resistance).

One more option though. Bad oxidized fuses under the dash. Disconnect the battery and clean the connecting legs in the fuse box, one fuse at a time.

Last posibility is a bad wiper / blinker stalk but not very likely.
Last edited by cal_w460 on Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
w460.333 1982 Colorado Beige 300 GD OM617.931

dcurbet
Posts: 6454

Re: It's official - My new 300GD

Post#160 » Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:29 am

cal_w460 wrote:1. Grind down to bare metal. Clean with thinner or alcohol. Apply 2k Epoxy with a brush or foam roller. You only need to grind down the rusty spots. The rest can be sanded lighly with 240 grit (European) set sanding paper.

Then apply your G’s color if you want to. Can be bought as 2k on the internet. Or just spray it as 1k. The rust protection is fine with epoxy. I would add some wax afterwords and some sort of plastic wobbly sheet (platon sheet) that creates an airpocket between the floor boards and rubber carpets. Will let condensation and water that has entered, to dry out.


I will definitely try this. This seems simpler and quicker than por15 which involves water and long wait times for the water to dry. Clean with prep solution - wash with water - let dry - spray with rust inhibitor - wash - let dry (thoroughly) - apply por15.
Definitely trying 2k epoxy next time if the result is close. Seems like a 30 min job vs hours and hours.

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