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key fob/ignition problem?

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Erictsn
Posts: 59

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#21 » Thu Jun 23, 2022 12:28 am

I found the codes P1570 "Start enable of DAS not sent"

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AlanMcR
Posts: 6607

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#22 » Thu Jun 23, 2022 9:07 am

That could be K40. In this case caused by poor current delivery to the ECU. It takes too long to boot and thus misses the DAS message on the CAN bus. Trying a known good K40 is a really good idea.

Or ... could be that the key is not recognized by the key reader.
The reader itself is between the drivers knees, just below the steering column. It has a thin wire going to the pickup ring around the key hole.

I think that the STAR system will tell you if the key is "present". I can't think of any better way to distinguish between these two cases.
...Alan

Greenliner
Posts: 117

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#23 » Thu Jun 23, 2022 4:24 pm

Hi all,

Located with GPS coordinates:
Latitude - knee height
Longitude - Under the steering column

Is this the thin wire that is suppose to go from the key reader to the pickup ring around the key hole?

IMG_0910.jpg


Brian

Greenliner
Posts: 117

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#24 » Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:12 pm

Hi all,
Another cut wire found under the drivers dash & mystery switch.

What was the "thicker black cable with 2 wires inside" connected to?

IMG_0913.jpg


What was in the "empty rectangular cutout" next to the headlight leveling frame?

IMG_0813.jpg


Thanks,
Brian

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AlanMcR
Posts: 6607

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#25 » Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:34 pm

That thin wire looks like "ground" brown. The black stripe might mean that it is a wire that is switched to ground.
The thick wire doesn't look like MB wiring at all. I'll bet it is related to the decidedly non-stock rectangular hole. Probably an aux light switch from a previous owner.
Reach up under the angled panel and you should feel the key reader box, black and about the size of a box of playing cards. It could be in a different place.
You can also try (gently) pulling the trim ring out from around the key hole. If it doesn't have a wire on it, then the system is completely different.
...Alan

Greenliner
Posts: 117

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#26 » Fri Jun 24, 2022 7:13 am

Hi Alan,

The chrome ring around the ignition key hole is attached by a single point. I am able to lift the ring like a hinge from the dash panel. I have carefully removed & inspected the dash panel front & backside.

There isn't a wire that attached to the chrome ring.

Does this support your previous comment to Eric "Otiswesty"?

AlanMcR wrote:
As far as I can tell, there is no immobilizer on the 350GD. The wiring diagram doesn't seem to show any evidence thereof. If there is a key reader coil, it is only to re-synch the IR features of the key.

I have never been able to locate a K38 behind the instrument cluster.

Brian

Greenliner
Posts: 117

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#27 » Fri Jun 24, 2022 8:27 am

Hi all,
Reading many of the comments of forum members with starting problems.

To a lesser extent, only because I have not driven my Puch G very much since importing last year, I had a similar pattern of the odd startup. The day, I picked up my vehicle at the Port of Tacoma, the first stop was to fill up with diesel prior to the drive back to Seattle. I remembering thinking it was "odd" that it took 2 attempt to start at the gas station. Similar to others, the first turn of the key to the start position, "no crank" response, followed by normal startup on second turn of the key. This happened again a couple more times intermittently, now does not start all all. (no crank).

With the help of many of the generous ClubG forum "Wise Men", this has been a challenge & a steep learning curve for me. I hope my woes will also assist others.

Brian

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AlanMcR
Posts: 6607

Re: key fob/ignition problem?

Post#28 » Fri Jun 24, 2022 12:08 pm

I just looked into the G350 circuit diagram. The path to the starter is very simple:

Battery -> ignition switch -> neutral safety switch -> starter

Put a meter or light bulb on the smallest wire going into the starter. Observe if it is getting power every time the key is turned to (start). If the light goes on and it doesn't crank, its your starter solenoid. If the light doesn't go on, the problem lies in either the ignition switch or neutral safety switch.

PM me if you don't have the diagram.
...Alan

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