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1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

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DesertStar
Posts: 2184

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#301 » Sat Jul 31, 2021 2:20 pm

GDrive wrote:There could be a difference in either the return spring or the drilled orifice. The former would require a different amount of vacuum to actuate, the latter would control the rate of pressure equalization in the chamber. In the end the two versions could offer slightly different response times to "throttle off" and additionally a different "rev-down time" in returning the motor to idle.


Well, I found the difference. The orifice on the .02 is smaller than that of the .00 as shown below in photo.
Not sure what effect it has on "decel" function, but if my old one goes kaput, I guess I will find out.
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GDrive
Posts: 174

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#302 » Mon Aug 02, 2021 7:19 pm

DesertStar wrote:
Well, I found the difference. The orifice on the .02 is smaller than that of the .00 as shown below in photo.
Not sure what effect it has on "decel" function, but if my old one goes kaput, I guess I will find out.


I did not anticipate the difference in the air passageway IDs you have discovered. In my reference the "orifice" is the micron sized air bleed hole which controls the recovery rate of the flexing diaphragm.

With what you've observed, it also seems reasonable to expect that the .02 and .00 units will regulate the airflow a differently, but for a different reason.

Probably an imperceptible difference when installed into a living breathing motor.
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300GD, 230TE, 300TD, 280SL

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Otiswesty
Posts: 9465

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#303 » Tue Aug 03, 2021 7:45 am

Otiswesty wrote:My big set back today was the AC control knob. After much manipuation, the small heavily insulated capillary tube broke. I heard a Pffft and felt a rush of air against my hand, Right after that, it snapped clean off. I'll have to figure out if it can be repaired or if a replacement unit is available new or used.

I have a new thermostat capillary tube and switch on order from the dealer A0038209610. Good to get that solved, I'll have to be careful and a little more gentle with the new one.
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ACknob.jpg
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Otiswesty
Posts: 9465

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#304 » Tue Aug 03, 2021 7:51 am

Chris wrote:Foam on recirculation flap, both sides:
4608370098
4608370198

Both sizes still available from MB and priced at $20 and $27.
These could probably be DIY made for a lot less.
461.213, 463.241

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Otiswesty
Posts: 9465

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#305 » Thu Aug 26, 2021 9:30 am

Not unexpectedly, Chris was right and only the larger foam seal was available despite being told otherwise when I placed the order. So just got another of the bigger ones ordered and delivered.

I had spent a fair bit of time working on the intake manifold side. The rubber air tubes underneath are a bit tricky to reinstall with the manifold in place. I'm getting better and quicker at R&R of the intake manifold. Last time I was down to about 90 min to fully reinstall. The end effect has been great with a steady low idle. I don't have enough miles on it yet to quantify fuel economy improvement, but it was running full enrichment all the time before with the WUR disconnected.

Thanks to Mauricio for some salvage m110 bits and Mike for his invaluable advice.

I am grateful that I now have actual heat in the cabin on those cool mornings now that I have a heater core installed. I went through the coolant system pretty completely. Re-cored the radiator, reconditioned steel pipes, some new rubber pipes, and addition of the standard 460 AC/heater box behind the dash with new core. I just have distilled water in the system right now and will probably do a couple of flushes to see how clean I can get it. I could see lots of crud built up inside the engine coolant spaces in the block when I had the air slide off and on the passenger side too, where the rubber pipes hook up.

Any recommendations on the best place to open the system for a complete coolant drain?
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Otiswesty
Posts: 9465

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#306 » Thu Aug 26, 2021 9:36 am

While I was waiting for parts to finish up on the engine side, I picked up new glove box body and door as well. The existing one was original with a 1982 date stamp. It was broken where it fastens to the dash and one of the hinges was completely useless. Reinstallation was a little tricky with lining up the L bracket behind and getting the hinges pushed inside the metal dash, but it sure is solid once it is installed properly

Any tips on riveting the arms onto the glovebox door?

I cut the good hinge out of the old glovebox, maybe someone can use it.
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DesertStar
Posts: 2184

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#307 » Thu Aug 26, 2021 11:22 am

Otiswesty wrote:Any recommendations on the best place to open the system for a complete coolant drain?


Not sure if it recommended by those that work on the M110 for a living, but I used the block drain years ago and subsequently cobbled together a hose connection to heater hose at firewall and connected garden hose to flush and then put back to original configuration.

Also, Patrick /G-AMG had a good DIY writeup with photos on his 280GE at P3.
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Screen Shot 2021-08-26 at 12.07.08 PM.png

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Otiswesty
Posts: 9465

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#308 » Wed Sep 15, 2021 7:35 pm

Otiswesty wrote:While I was waiting for parts to finish up on the engine side, I picked up new glove box body and door as well. The existing one was original with a 1982 date stamp. It was broken where it fastens to the dash and one of the hinges was completely useless. Reinstallation was a little tricky with lining up the L bracket behind and getting the hinges pushed inside the metal dash, but it sure is solid once it is installed properly

Any tips on riveting the arms onto the glovebox door?

I am thinking of using these small copper rivets from BoltDepot
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Detai ... ACEALw_wcB

No options for the little rivets in EPC
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Otiswesty
Posts: 9465

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#309 » Thu Sep 16, 2021 5:38 pm

After work today, I was torquing some fasteners and doing some wipe down and cleaning in the engine compartment. After wiping the valve cover down, I was able to read this sticker...

The car was ordered by/for the Sultan of Dubai in 1982, the car was sold to me as having 25k KM on it. One thing that did not make sense was that the motor serial number did not match the data card. It could be possible that the motor was changed for an early AMG tuned motor. The intake manifold that I removed was a very nicely modified sedan manifold that had been cut and rewelded to fit the G engine bay. I now assume that must have been an AMG part made to fit the motor into a 460/461. I'm wondering if it possible to determine if it is a high compression motor by doing a compression check or other diagnostic maneuver? Does anyone know if there are any other things could I look for that might determine the origin or pedigree of the motor?
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AMG.jpg
Intake.jpg
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Otiswesty
Posts: 9465

Re: 1983 280GE BM10 build and restoration

Post#310 » Thu Sep 16, 2021 7:42 pm

Well I did a little reading tonight and it looks like that intake is a modified manifold for the AMG tune. The rear 3 intake runners are shortened and angled inward to clear the brake booster and shock tower. Definitely look like larger bore intake pipes. My presumed former Tijuana engine job is starting to look a little more sophisticated. The welding on the intake manifold modification was so well done it was hard to appreciate it. Here's a pic of the kit I found.

I guess a compression test should tell me the real story. Standard m110 is 120 PSI. The AMG kits start at 9 Bar or 130 PSI and goes up from there.
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TuningProgramm.jpg
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AMGspec.JPG (32.47 KiB) Viewed 54 times
AMG_M110 tune up kit.jpg
AMG_M110 tune up kit.jpg (60.69 KiB) Viewed 54 times
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