blueg wrote:This was pre-Loctite era safety.
I'd still choose a mechanical locking over a liquid for something so critical.
That'll explain why my 250 GD has a weird brackets coming off the engine.
I was told that the bracket off the dampener bracket in particular was made because loctite wasn't invented back then. You either taught me that or another mate of mine.
“JP, I use marine grade terminals and wiring. They are all tinned. I use the fully insulated ones: http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/product ... -insulated”@ Autovice:
► Marine grade terminals are defiantly the best, especially the marine tinned versions. Anything tinned just makes life so much easier. So that's a great tip mate! Even though I'd terrible luck with tinned products before I will try this shop in the near future.“ They are crimped only and not soldered.”
► Crimping is great too. Infact people are fine just crimping things together. I personally crimp and then solder because I tend to overthink things. “Added heat shrink tubing where needed “
► Agreed. I even think that heatshrink should be a must for any electrician's list of things to buy. Infact I do think the electrician at ICON derelict cars and trucks triple heat-shrinks his wiring splices. But this is a bias; I havn't met him myself though, as I've only heard of this through one of Jonathan Ward's videos. I kind of want to meet the man myself one day. “ dab of dielectric grease before connecting them together. This is to keep dust and water out.”
► I defiantly love dielectric grease. I think it's literally silicone grease and it's safe to use on rubbers and the like. I personally use marine liquid tape for sealed joints since I personally think it provides a better seal for heat-shrink tubing tobe added. Literally anything with terminals exposed to the elements I use dielectric grease on. Literally everything else. DG defiantly has made it's prescience in my engine bay.