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- Posts: 240
My 2000 G500 has 265K miles. I've looked in the inspection/grease fill hole on the front hubs and as you'd expect I can see black grease mixed with the white grease. Who knows how many miles it's been operated with the CV boots in a failed state. I've only had it for the last 15k.
I've completely torn down and rebuilt a 4speed manual transmission from a W123 and have driven it now for 16k miles with no issues. Swapped engines, done head gaskets, timing belts etc, but for some reason I don't feel totally comfortable performing a full axle service on the 463. Not to mention I don't have access to a press or special tools. I have no vibrations, no steering slop, and no abnormal leaks such as gear oil into the hubs. I don't want to keep driving it and risk CV damage.
Has anyone paid a shop to have this service performed? What's the price on this? Other than the local Mercedes dealer I'm not sure there's a G experienced mechanic around. I'm near Greenville, SC. Not sure that the Mercedes dealer would have experience doing this either. It would be my preference to have this service performed by someone who's done it before. I'd like to see another 150k miles on the truck before having to do it again.
What are the recommendations from you guys?
- Posts: 4829
Sounds like you are competent with the required tools. If you can't find someone who is already experienced with this job, then hiring someone else really doesn't get you ahead. You care more about getting it right than the other guy.
I'm not that great of a mechanic and managed to get 1 out of 2 done perfectly. The other one probably would have been great too if I had checked it after 1K miles and discovered that I hadn't gotten the bearing quite tight enough. Even at that I think it went 100K miles. The only special tool that you need is the weird four prong socket. The hardest part is getting out the race that is on the hub. It can be cut almost through with a Dremel and then knocked off with a chisel. Other than that, it is very messy, and don't mix up the shims.
- Posts: 91
I am in the process of doing my driver side hub. Lost the cv joint recently, so I have been driving in rear wheel drive only. Honestly, my g drives as nice as it did in 4 wheel drive.
I don't feel like tackling this job, but I know I need to get it done soon. Did you order your kit yet? From where?
- Posts: 221
I am currently having my driver side swivel housing re sealed as well as CV boot and wheel bearings replaced at the dealer . Here are the parts for one side of the axle.
2010 G55 AMG
- Posts: 4872
Minh mentioned to me that Chris does not necessarily install the rubber CV boot when doing a front axle. I have heard enough stories of the boot being completely gone with no issues, so maybe it is not really a big deal. Hopefully Chris can confirm and chime in here. Obviously you would need to maintain adequate grease levels in the steering knuckle in this situation.
- Posts: 3807
A good truck/axle shop can tackle it, need someone with experience even if it’s not on Gs. They won’t have the nut socket but will have the rest of the tools needed. It certainly can be done by you as well. Just make sure you have the correct tools. Makes it so much easier.
The hub bearing can be split with a bearing puller (ABN Bearing Puller with 1/2in to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XF8JF7?re ... b_ap_share
) then pulled off with a three leg puller. Or I got two extra threaded studs (https://www.mcmaster.com/#98750A492
) to match the ones on the splitter and it works like a puller. A new bearing on the hub is easily installed if you use an oven for the bearing and heat to 250f and freeze the hub if you want to help further.
- Posts: 2147
I’ pretty sure that the CV boot always needs to be installed. You can’t really fill the whole knuckle ball with CV grease and hope that it stays clean. Some of the grease will leak out through the scrape ring (its a thin grey grease remember), the CV will run dry without fresh grease. Because it will sloung what grease is still left in there, out to the sides, when spinning.
What some people have done though (Hans Hehl for example) is to skip the smaller one of the two metal lock rings on the CV boot. To prevent the boot from tearing. Give it some movement on the shaft.
w460.333 1982 Colorado Beige 300 GD OM617.931
- Posts: 3247
Yes always do the rubber cv boot if it’s opened, it’s cheap and can even be replaced without messing with wheel bearings or the hub nut by removing the eight 19mm king pin bolts and the eight 13mm CV ball seal bolts.
- Posts: 91
can the cv be checked out this way to see how bad the damage is? Just take off the eight bolts , king pin etc.
- Posts: 3247
Yes you can check the CV for radial play when it and the CV housing and hub are all still attached but off of the axle tube.
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