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1980 230G build

Tech forum for DIY, repairs, restoration, problems, questions, etc... Post here get answers!
shiann
Posts: 139

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#91 » Thu Jul 09, 2020 7:13 pm

Completely agree with you about how the brush guard mounts. I ended up using large bolts to attach also as the MBUSA spec cars had an internal thread on the quick release parts.

Love the color. The toyota cement color is amazing and I want to color change my truck also, but that won't be till way down the line.

Great job designing and 3D printing the gear. What material did you use? I've been 3D printing things for my truck also since I'm cheap too. haha.

The headlight and signal guards look great!

Keep up the great work!
2005 G55k – Mildly Modded/Restored Family Hauler
2005 Volvo S60 T5 M66 – IPD DP, exhaust, sways, R-brembos, FC04A, KW V2
2007 FSAE Auto-X Racecar

jlager
Posts: 306

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#92 » Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:40 pm

Speedometer works again!

https://youtu.be/d97pcdhGdL0

jlager
Posts: 306

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#93 » Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:42 pm

shiann wrote:Completely agree with you about how the brush guard mounts. I ended up using large bolts to attach also as the MBUSA spec cars had an internal thread on the quick release parts.

Love the color. The toyota cement color is amazing and I want to color change my truck also, but that won't be till way down the line.

Great job designing and 3D printing the gear. What material did you use? I've been 3D printing things for my truck also since I'm cheap too. haha.

The headlight and signal guards look great!

Keep up the great work!


The gear was printed in PLA as that's all I had. I've ordered some nylon and going to reprint it in that as I don't think PLA will last. It's also gets slathered in transfer case oil which might break down the PLA over time.

I'll run the PLA version for a couple weeks and will report back on what kind of wear it saw in that time.

mockingbird812
Posts: 473

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#94 » Fri Jul 10, 2020 8:02 am

Congrats! Nice innovation and overcoming adversity and sticking it to “the man” and not paying his uber price tag!!!
Sam (in Dayton, Ohio, USA) '94 W461 290GD (ex Dutch Mil) Turbo (added) 3Dr LWB 5spd A/C; '69 Chevelle SS “L78” 4spd Orig Paint 32K mi; Former owner: '71 Pinz 710K.

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Otiswesty
Posts: 5665

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#95 » Fri Jul 10, 2020 8:54 am

Great job on that speedo drive gear!

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bram_r
Posts: 925

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#96 » Sun Jul 19, 2020 12:55 pm

jlager wrote:
Looked all over the internet to find a replacement gear for this. It seems it was also used in VW Vanagon vans from the 70s but their gears are super rare and no longer in production as well. Someone makes a gear out of brass but it's like $120 and I'm cheap. Decided to try and design one myself for 3D printing using manual measurements from the worn gear I had. Came out pretty good:


Great job and great example of how 3D printing can help repairing old stuff that's no longer supported or extremely expensive.
Thanks for sharing!

gr. bram
'experience is what you have, just after you needed it..'

jlager
Posts: 306

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#97 » Sun Jul 19, 2020 2:15 pm

Finally found a replacement for my worn out drag link. Not so much an issue for 1982 and newer Gs but the early Gs had a smaller cone size on the drag link ends and they are really hard/expensive to find.

Went full custom and ordered 1 ton GM tie rod ends and weld in inserts from here:
https://ca.tmrcustoms.com/products/heav ... -crossover

Bought some DOM tubing locally, cut it to the right length and had the inserts welded in professionally (don't trust my welding skills on safety related things). Had to ream out the pitman arm and steering knuckle for these to fit using a 1.5"/foot reamer for GM tie rod end cones. This reamer was the most expensive part of this: https://ca.tmrcustoms.com/products/1-to ... mer-1-5-ft


Came out pretty good and way beefier than stock (picture doesn't really show it well):

20200716_155347.jpg


And now I can buy replacement tie rod ends for cheap locally!

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inkblotz
Posts: 5723

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#98 » Mon Jul 20, 2020 3:09 am

jlager wrote:Got the center console all cleaned up and all glue removed. Its slightly discolored in places so I might paint it with vinyl paint too:

20200502_134106.jpg

Started cutting and fitting new door cards out of the ABS plastic sheets I got. It's not perfect yet but I'm liking it waaaay better than the tufted leather:
20200502_133805.jpg20200502_133617.jpg

This was how I made my ABS door cards: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6600&p=62891&hilit=abs+door#p62891

mockingbird812
Posts: 473

Re: 1980 230G build

Post#99 » Mon Jul 20, 2020 6:28 am

jlager wrote:Finally found a replacement for my worn out drag link. Not so much an issue for 1982 and newer Gs but the early Gs had a smaller cone size on the drag link ends and they are really hard/expensive to find.

Went full custom and ordered 1 ton GM tie rod ends and weld in inserts from here:
https://ca.tmrcustoms.com/products/heav ... -crossover

Bought some DOM tubing locally, cut it to the right length and had the inserts welded in professionally (don't trust my welding skills on safety related things). Had to ream out the pitman arm and steering knuckle for these to fit using a 1.5"/foot reamer for GM tie rod end cones. This reamer was the most expensive part of this: https://ca.tmrcustoms.com/products/1-to ... mer-1-5-ft


Came out pretty good and way beefier than stock (picture doesn't really show it well):

20200716_155347.jpg

And now I can buy replacement tie rod ends for cheap locally!


Nice effort!!!!
Sam (in Dayton, Ohio, USA) '94 W461 290GD (ex Dutch Mil) Turbo (added) 3Dr LWB 5spd A/C; '69 Chevelle SS “L78” 4spd Orig Paint 32K mi; Former owner: '71 Pinz 710K.

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