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W460 LED tail lights

Any post where the initial author's intention is share information pertaining to parts specific to the G-klasse. This includes information about the parts needed for a certain repair job, or how to find the parts (different suppliers, etc).
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shochu
Posts: 171

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#11 » Sun Jul 27, 2014 6:02 pm

wow.. that's nice..

PackerEdgerton
Posts: 168

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#12 » Mon Jul 28, 2014 12:58 pm

I think that this is in-general a great idea for an upgrade. The only thing I would be very concerned about is the hot-melt glue. My experience is that on a 100 degree day, the glue will soften up and the lights will just slide right off the lenses. In addition, the glue may ooze down and make a mess wherever it goes. I'd opt for a different solution.

Packman.

VolvoC303
Posts: 1512

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#13 » Mon Jul 28, 2014 1:32 pm

Nice! Are you concerned that your parking lights might be too bright though? I can't tell from the clip.

I did a more conventional LED conversion but they aren't as bright. I'll post a pic of that sometime. I used these for the brake/tail for example: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo ... r-led/806/ which were better than stock but not much, but at least they will last longer and come on much faster. I'll likely upgrade soon since the tech keeps evolving, or maybe go your route.

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vadimivanovich
Posts: 7836

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#14 » Mon Jul 28, 2014 2:53 pm

Packer - typical hot-melt glue has a melting point of about 180C - that's pretty hot. Far more than the G will see in the general outdoors. Still, there are different melting points and even when still relatively solid the glue can become soft before it actually flows.

Anyway, it's a low-commitment, easily reversible option to try the LEDs out. On my someday list.

hus55
Posts: 1541

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#15 » Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:03 pm

now I get it.... ;)

many thanks.....!

rgds hus

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grazza
Posts: 912

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#16 » Sat Aug 16, 2014 12:16 am

Update.

I was not too happy with the whole "glueing directly onto the lens" thing. It worked but it was not pretty.

I spent quite a bit of time on a better mounting solution, with a few different attempts at different designs.
My first try was to make a shaped single backing plate. Neat and tidy for sure, but I could not get this to work - i.e. getting the arrays back far enough so the lens sat correctly on the dust seal. This included modifying the lens and the light assembly which I also wanted to avoid. It was close, but no cigar. Others may have more success.

So I got it down to two diffent solutions, both of which dont need any changes to the lens or light assembly. The key was to use the slots which are already part of the factory assembly, where the screws go for the lens.

The easiest, by far, was to use two pieces of wire horizontally, slotting them into the existing guides and then hot-melt glueing the arrays to the wire.
For the right thickness of wire I used a couple of pieces af arc welding rod with the flux hammered off.
The arrays can then sit back enough for the lens to fit on the dust seals. It works and it is quite strong.

Image
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The second solution was to make a more solid back and this was a lot more involved, although do-able in an hour or so. This used two different aluminium sections riveted together.

The parts, from a local large hardware store:
* aluminium angle ("L" section), 20mm x 20mm x 1.5mm (1m purchased)
* aluminium channel ("C" section) 20mm x 20mm x 1.5mm (1m purchased)
* 24 x rivets

The tools:
Square file, flat file, riveter, etc...
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Each light consists of 175mm chennel and 4 x 40mm angle and 2 x 70mm angle, riveted together.

Step 1. Cut the "C" section, 175mm. Mark out where the rectangular holes should be by holding it up to the light assembly on the G (it will need to slot between the black plastic holes, where the lens screws in) and marking it. Then drill a hole big enough to file out with the square file.

Step 2. Cut 4 x 40mm angle and 2 x 70mm angle

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Step 3. Rivet them all together

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Step 5. Unfortunatley the "C" section is not quite tall enough to easily slot into the lights so what I did was widen the slots a bit (only about 1mm) Note how the holes are enlarged. I guess if I could easily find 21mm C section this would not be an issue but I wanted to use stuff that the local hardware store had.

Image

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Step 6. Stick down the arrays. They all come with self-adhesive backing

Step 7. Mount the new assembly and screw the lens back on

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Oh, dont forget that to run LED's as indicators will require load resistors or a different flasher relay. This is because LED's are lower current and the factory flasher requires more currrent to trigger. I used a different flasher instead of the load-resistors:

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-Graham
Last edited by grazza on Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Winston
Posts: 1394

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#17 » Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:03 am

Brilliant!

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Canada g
Posts: 1024

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#18 » Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:08 am

Both solutions looks very good to me. You are the 460 Led MAN (interior and exterior)

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diesel_jim
Posts: 794

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#19 » Sat Aug 16, 2014 6:01 am

Nice job there Grazz. Definately one for the list for mine.

Big Papa Yams
Posts: 8

Re: W460 LED tail lights

Post#20 » Mon Sep 09, 2019 1:01 pm

Grazza - wonderful addition to the visibility / safety factor of the truck. Will definitely make this upgrade a priority for the W460 I am considering purchasing.
I don't see how anyone can miss a brick like the W460 but having additional visibility may just provide the difference between CRUNCH and NEAR MISS...
Did this on my motorcycles when I was riding, have upgraded all cars similarly since.

JAY
Big Papa Yams
Soon to be? 1989 W460 SWB with 90,000 kms

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