I was not too happy with the whole "glueing directly onto the lens" thing. It worked but it was not pretty.
I spent quite a bit of time on a better mounting solution, with a few different attempts at different designs.
My first try was to make a shaped single backing plate. Neat and tidy for sure, but I could not get this to work - i.e. getting the arrays back far enough so the lens sat correctly on the dust seal. This included modifying the lens and the light assembly which I also wanted to avoid. It was close, but no cigar. Others may have more success.
So I got it down to two diffent solutions, both of which dont need any changes to the lens or light assembly. The key was to use the slots which are already part of the factory assembly, where the screws go for the lens.
The easiest, by far, was to use two pieces of wire horizontally, slotting them into the existing guides and then hot-melt glueing the arrays to the wire.
For the right thickness of wire I used a couple of pieces af arc welding rod with the flux hammered off.
The arrays can then sit back enough for the lens to fit on the dust seals. It works and it is quite strong.
The second solution was to make a more solid back and this was a lot more involved, although do-able in an hour or so. This used two different aluminium sections riveted together.
The parts, from a local large hardware store:
* aluminium angle ("L" section), 20mm x 20mm x 1.5mm (1m purchased)
* aluminium channel ("C" section) 20mm x 20mm x 1.5mm (1m purchased)
* 24 x rivets
Square file, flat file, riveter, etc...
Each light consists of 175mm chennel and 4 x 40mm angle and 2 x 70mm angle, riveted together.
Step 1. Cut the "C" section, 175mm. Mark out where the rectangular holes should be by holding it up to the light assembly on the G (it will need to slot between the black plastic holes, where the lens screws in) and marking it. Then drill a hole big enough to file out with the square file.
Step 2. Cut 4 x 40mm angle and 2 x 70mm angle
Step 3. Rivet them all together
Step 5. Unfortunatley the "C" section is not quite tall enough to easily slot into the lights so what I did was widen the slots a bit (only about 1mm) Note how the holes are enlarged. I guess if I could easily find 21mm C section this would not be an issue but I wanted to use stuff that the local hardware store had.
Step 6. Stick down the arrays. They all come with self-adhesive backing
Step 7. Mount the new assembly and screw the lens back on
Oh, dont forget that to run LED's as indicators will require load resistors or a different flasher relay. This is because LED's are lower current and the factory flasher requires more currrent to trigger. I used a different flasher instead of the load-resistors: