VolvoC303 wrote:I'd argue that making a new harness will be pretty far from a piece of cake. You'll really need to reserve some time for that job and the endless measuring needed.
bratwurst wrote:VolvoC303 wrote:I'd argue that making a new harness will be pretty far from a piece of cake. You'll really need to reserve some time for that job and the endless measuring needed.
I have to agree. Compared to other car wiring jobs, the G is pretty trivial. But that is in the context rewiring a vehicle - which is a massive PITA unequalled by pretty much any other possible job on a car.
I would focus on solving the problems one by one.
I'm getting 12.9V on the hot side 0.9V on the other with the battery connected and the fuse removed. Disconnecting the battery and switching the meter to Ohms, I'm getting anywhere between 3.77 and 37.4 on one side and 0.0 consistently on the other. On the first side (the hot side from the first measurement) is where the jump in Ohms occurs, usually between 3.77 and 10.0.
You win. I looked back there and it looks like a pile of crap. I actually noticed rust through one of the rear support beams under the rear door. This is going to get expensive rather quickly, from a body work standpoint.
I don't see any M6 bolts down there. What I do see is a lot of electrical tape, lose wires and rust.
bratwurst wrote:Cool I win? I hope the prize is in beer.
bratwurst wrote:So the 12.9 is normal - actually really good assuming the motor is not running. The .9 V on the other side I'm am 99.5% certain is due to a ground loop - a bad ground somewhere.
Did you manage to isolate the wires attached to the clock lead? I would snip that wire as a start and see if you get rid of the fuse problem.
bratwurst wrote:I've attached a pic of my truck's rear ground point. It is just angled a bit "up" from the viewpoint of the pic you took. Sorry, lighting was horrible but it should get the message across.
bratwurst wrote:It looks like the pic you took was of at least one brown wire. Any brown wires should be grounded. This ground point is especially important for the gas gauge - the fuel tank sensor is grounded here.
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