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Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

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ridgeman
Posts: 210

Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#1 » Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:49 am

Has anyone installed this on their fender tops? Also, would
black stainless steel pop rivets be the best way to secure them?

VolvoC303
Posts: 1512

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#2 » Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:45 am

I think you'll wish you hadn't installed it later down the road; big rust promoter and makes a later sale tougher.

ridgeman
Posts: 210

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#3 » Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:20 pm

When I had my front seat refitted recently, the shop was working on a
type of 'G' I had never seen before. It was a four door convertible and
definately looked to be Military. It was fitted with diamond plate on the
fenders and on the large flat front bumper that housed a large winch in
the center most area of the bumper. Since the vehicle was in great
condition and had no rust visible I noticed that a 1mm space existed
between the diamond plate and the vehicle's metal to allow air and water
to flow through. Will have to find out what was used to attain that 1mm
of clearance?

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amzimmy
Posts: 252

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#4 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 5:09 am

I have fitted on the front fenders the Aluminum Plates (walk-on) and have been placed with a thin "worm" of silicon. Giving the benefit of sealing against water and rust. To remove the Plates simply run a "Dental-Floss" and it will separate without damaging the painted surface.

amzimmy

ridgeman
Posts: 210

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#5 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 7:25 am

Thanks for the info.

User avatar
ontum
Posts: 398

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#6 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:22 pm

Diamond plate? I think it would make it look like a land rover. Isn't the purpose of those plates to reduce sun glare? I haven't heard of anyone having this problem on a G. I also think it would devalue your G because potential buyers wouldn't want them. Just my 2 cents. Be sure to post pictures if you do the mod.

-
Craig

User avatar
schuhe
Posts: 1840

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#7 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:20 pm

I had thought long about adding the top of fender plates. The idea of drilling them into place was troubling to me. The holes would create opportunity for rust. The idea of a gap does help, but there still needs to be something that hold them in place. Holes?

So, in the long run, I have found no good resolution. The idea of adheasive might work. Dental floss, you say??

You are a dentist, correct? amzimmy?

ts

User avatar
amzimmy
Posts: 252

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#8 » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:31 pm

Schuhe, nope, no dentist only a simple-retired-architect, the fact with dental-floss is that it is strong, thin and somehow abrasive if you wand to separate something that has been fixed with silicone, simply pull the thread through with a "sawing" action . No damage to paintwork.

amzimmy
Attachments
Fender (900 x 672).jpg

ridgeman
Posts: 210

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#9 » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:35 am

Am strongly leaning toward no drilling whatsoever. First, I would spray both
the back and front sides of the diamond plate with this Blue Magic Rubber
Coating in Black that is sold by Grainger. Next, I would seal the complete
perimeter with either 3M double sided tape or that new 'Strength of Super
Glue' tape from U Glu. It's a simple peel and press that is waterproof, acid free,
non toxic and bonds instantly but can be removed easily without affecting the
paint surface of the 'G'. If I leave the upper side of the diamond plate without
spraying it with the rubber coating I'm thinking that the original black finish of
the diamond plate will eventually wear out and show the silver plate below it.

ridgeman
Posts: 210

Re: Black Aluminum Diamond Plate

Post#10 » Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:43 pm

Spoke to an old auto body guy and he recommends this way to install
the aluminum diamond plate on the fenders.
- GE Silicone II Aluminum & Metal Caulk
It's 'rain ready' in 3 hours and if need be can be removed from painted
surfaces with rubbing alcohol . It's 'tack free' in 30 minutes and fully
cures in 24 hours.
By running a continuous bead aound the perimeter it will not allow water
to build up anywhere underneath the aluminum plate.
Note; 100% Silicone, unlike acrylic silicone, is permanently:
* Waterproof
* Flexible
* Shrink-proof
* Crack- proof

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