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4 Speed Manual woes

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Welcome to the Tech/DIY information archive. This area of the board is for reference purposes, please direct general tech discussion to the G Wagen Technical Forum.
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Gelande
Posts: 5327

Re: alt + clutch master cylinder service

Post#11 » Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:20 am

Yes obtain at Sears the correct claw foot brake line wrench, you only need one. The brake fittings on the G are hard to get, they are only the same as the ponton and some heckflosse cars. I got a bunch off some junked axles up at Harald's place a few years back, so if you break one let me know.

they work with standard hard brake lines you get at a good autoparts store, use with flaring tool (worth purchasing and having on all road trips in old Gwagens)

kerry460
Posts: 235

Re: alt + clutch master cylinder service

Post#12 » Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:46 pm

G,,day alternator/ fn belt for 1984 RHD 300GD aus delivery.
13A 1030
kerry

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reinhardtius
Posts: 799

4 Speed Manual woes

Post#13 » Tue Feb 02, 2010 10:37 am

So I noticed when I picked up my G that the clutch pedal engagement point was VERY low. I literally had to press the pedal to the floor for it to engage. After driving it for 3 days (not much clutch use since our drives were long and on the highway) I started to notice some quirks.

Firstly, it was harder to get the truck into gears. In order to get it into reverse I had to shut the truck off and put it into reverse and turn the G back on. I noticed the G moving in that direction as soon as I truck turned on. I could do this or put the transfer case into neutral and then jam it back into 2WD. '

I drove it from MD to Philly and as soon as I got to Philly it decided that it had enough. I was leaving stop lights in 4th gear and as soon as I pulled up to my apartment I went to shut the truck off to put it into neutral and it did not start back up (alternator was not charging the battery). I pushed it into it's current resting place and said 'F this'.

I've replaced the clutch master cylinder and I have a slave cylinder I'm waiting to put in (weather here is too cold now). The trans mount is in AWFUL shape as well. I also noticed a missing shifter bushing on one of the linkages. I ordered some of those too. The shifter is sloppy as hell, even when the G is off. Is my transmission fried? I've never heard of one of these going like that... Perhaps the trans mount being in crap shape caused it to wear out quickly...

Thoughts dudes? I'd like to be able to drive my G...

don't mind the missing turn signal lens; it fell off in Arkansas..
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6637/img0311l.jpg


Hunter

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Dai C
Posts: 786

Re: 4 Speed Manual woes

Post#14 » Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:36 pm

It takes a pressure bleeder to do a good job on the clutch system, just like the brakes. It takes a lot of fluid as well, half a quart or more. I like doing the job with a person pressing on the pedal as I'm evacuating the air out of the slave.
The reason the truck is difficult to get into the gear you select is because the clutch as not fully disengaged. It doesn't fully disengage because there is air in the lines or trapped in the MC or slave cylinder. Get the air out. Use a quality brake fluid like Castrol DOT 4 low moisture activity.
A couple of reasons why the transmission feels sloppy.

The shifter itself (what the lever is connected to) has shot parts and is sloppy and needs rebuilding. There is a great post by Inkblotz about solving that problem with a 5 speed shifter. Look at it. Eurotruck can supply the rebuild parts if that is the problem.

The other probable cause is the rubber bushings that the shift rods connect to on the bottom of the shifter itself and the transmission levers. They are rubber and can go south for unknown reasons. Like LA smog. They can easily be checked for integrity and replaced if toast.
In my opinion the transmission itself is probably perfect. If it shifts and goes forward and backwards, it is OK. The transmission is not in crap shape, the bushing is worn out. That is the problem.

The alternator is most likely not working because of the voltage regulator. Replace it with the VR in the spare alternator you have. The VR is integral with the brush holder. Two machine screws hold it in. It is the bloody easiest fix I know of. You can spend more money and time on a replacement alternator but the VR is usually the culprit.
Calmly address one issue at a time. If you are frustrated walk away. Come back with perspective and an open mind. You can solve the problems.
-Dai

User avatar
reinhardtius
Posts: 799

Re: 4 Speed Manual woes

Post#15 » Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:48 pm

Dai C wrote:It takes a pressure bleeder to do a good job on the clutch system, just like the brakes. It takes a lot of fluid as well, half a quart or more. I like doing the job with a person pressing on the pedal as I'm evacuating the air out of the slave.
The reason the truck is difficult to get into the gear you select is because the clutch as not fully disengaged. It doesn't fully disengage because there is air in the lines or trapped in the MC or slave cylinder. Get the air out. Use a quality brake fluid like Castrol DOT 4 low moisture activity.
A couple of reasons why the transmission feels sloppy.

The shifter itself (what the lever is connected to) has shot parts and is sloppy and needs rebuilding. There is a great post by Inkblotz about solving that problem with a 5 speed shifter. Look at it. Eurotruck can supply the rebuild parts if that is the problem.

The other probable cause is the rubber bushings that the shift rods connect to on the bottom of the shifter itself and the transmission levers. They are rubber and can go south for unknown reasons. Like LA smog. They can easily be checked for integrity and replaced if toast.
In my opinion the transmission itself is probably perfect. If it shifts and goes forward and backwards, it is OK. The transmission is not in crap shape, the bushing is worn out. That is the problem.

The alternator is most likely not working because of the voltage regulator. Replace it with the VR in the spare alternator you have. The VR is integral with the brush holder. Two machine screws hold it in. It is the bloody easiest fix I know of. You can spend more money and time on a replacement alternator but the VR is usually the culprit.
Calmly address one issue at a time. If you are frustrated walk away. Come back with perspective and an open mind. You can solve the problems.
-Dai


Dai,

Thanks for the good advice here. Well, here is what I ended up doing. I locked the car and vowed not to touch it for a few weeks. I came back to it, took out the alloy wheel bolts, put the right steel bolts in and then replaced one of the valve stems (it was leaking). I put air in the tires and charged the battery and fired the G up. Despite being off for over 1.5 months it started RIGHT up. I depressed the clutch and put the car into gear. It worked!

Here is my idea. The clutch system had air in the lines and as a result when I pushed the slave cylinder in with the clutch pedal it wasn't pushing the clutch all the way in or whatever. The gears got jumbled up and that's why the shifter was crazy. When I bled the system I reset all the levers down below and made sure everything was okay. I engaged the clutch and shifted through all the gears with ease like I did when I bought the G Wagen.

So, the clutch works great. The transmission is shifting perfectly as it should and now I only have to replace those bushings to make shifts a little tighter. Transmission mount? It seems to actually be OK - should I still replace it? It's like 75 bucks...

Thank you once again everyone for the help!

Hunter

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